Cosmetics

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Cellular Revive Mist with EpiSnow™

Discover our formulation with EpiSnow™, an easy and effective formula which can be adapted as needed.

For our new active ingredient EpiSnow™, I thought long about what innovative formulation would inspire you and at the same time reflect the active ingredient.  

True to the KISS principle (“Keep it simple and stupid”), I wanted to develop another uncomplicated, effective, and energy-saving formulation that could be adopted by any developer.

For this reason, I decided to use a cold-process, one-pot method. Despite its simplicity and the minimal number of raw materials- only seven- I chose them very carefully. Innovative formulation does not necessarily have to be incredibly complex to convince users of the effectiveness of the active ingredient and the finished product.  

EpiSnow™ is based on maltodextrin and contains a small amount of lecithin. For developers, this means that the active ingredient is highly water-soluble but becomes an opaque solution due to the presence of lecithin. Opacity depends on concentration. I use 2% EpiSnow™ and the mist is still translucent.  

But let's start at the beginning. First, I poured the water into a large beaker and attached a paddle stirrer. While stirring, I added Sharon Aquavita® 95. This is a vitamin-based multifunctional preservation system. Once it has dissolved, I added the EpiSnow™ 

With just these three ingredients, we already have an ingredient-led skincare. Just take a look at the INCI! But we want a little bit more, because especially in winter, our skin needs extra care, and we are happy to give it that. That’s why I chose Resplanta® Cotton MB. The flowers of the cotton plant not only look like little snowballs and fit perfectly with our EpiSnow™ from a marketing perspective. Resplanta® Cotton MB is also a great, water-soluble source of moisture- perfect for skin care in winter!  

Now the only thing missing is a fragrance that promises the lightness of snowflakes and the joy of anticipation for the first spring flowers. For me, this feeling is perfectly represented by Escentina’s “Tokyo” perfume.  

To incorporate the perfume into the spray, I use a solubilizer, of which only a small amount is needed. Sunsoft SCP10-C (MB) has a honey-like consistency. Therefore, I weigh it on a weighing pan and add the perfume directly on top.  In the next step, I put it all together in the beaker. It takes a while for it to dissolve in the unheated water phase. It is important that all ingredients are completely dissolved. Stirring with a paddle stirrer is adequate. Homogenization is not necessary.  

In the final step, the pH value must be adjusted. The preservative system requires a pH <5.5, which is very skin-friendly and supports the skin's acid mantle. For this, I use citric acid (30% sol.).  

Now the Cellular Revive Mist with EpiSnow™ can be poured into a spray bottle and the fine mist can be sprayed over your face. Important: do not rub the mist into your skin with your hands. Just close your eyes, spray and let it soak in.  

I hope that my formulation has sparked your curiosity about our new active ingredient EpiSnow™, and perhaps you had the opportunity to pick up a Cellular Revive Mist with EpiSnow™ at in-cosmetics Global in Paris.  

For further formulation questions, send me an email at antje.duering@mibellegroup.com

Antje
Écrit par

Antje Düring